Saturday, May 20, 2006

Noto, Sicilia, May 2006


Having been on the road for the past six weeks (has it been that long?/has it only been that long?) it has taken very little persuasion for us to settle into the natural rhythm of life in the rugged south west coast of Sicily. We are staying in the countryside with our first WWOOFing host, the vivacious Mariangela and her 11yr old daughter Alba. The farm is small and perfectly formed and sits on a mountainous throne surrounded by curtseying valleys that lead to the hounourable ocean which dutifully patrols the horizon. A typical day, and days here do tend to be typical, rewards the early riser with cool golden skies and punishes those who toil (tour/explore) in the heat of the midday sun when any self respecting local is in bed.

Upon arising around 6 we set to our main task, one of creating a firebreak around the eastern side of the property. The work is hard (we have biceps to prove it) but important as in summer temperatures can reach an astonishing 48 degrees in the shade (through the snow, barefoot..) and fire is a constant and real threat to which Mariangela nearly lost her home 8yrs ago. (It goes without saying that person's who go by the name 'Andy' are banned from Sicily between the months of June - September). To clear the land, we work in unison with pick and shovel like the anti-dwarfs we are and by 9am having done the majority of our days required 4hrs work (in exchange for accommodation and food) we swing ax over shoulder and hi ho home for coffee and dry bread. Fortunately, breakfast is the most understated of the italian meals, and although simple, it is good. Damn good. And then there is lunch. Mama Mia. Its just like every wet italian food dream you've ever had but with more olive oil.

So what to do we do after 11am when our days work is done? Well, other than lunch and the requisite siesta there is italian language study to be done, books to be read, drawings to be made, letters to be written, wine to be drunk (from the barrel to the recycled water bottle to our bellies...), the world to be contemplated and the next part of our holiday/life to be planned. Does this all sound to good to be true? Hmmmm. It is good. It is true.








ps; random photo's of skaters and breakers were part of "world fitness tour" complete with aerobics and spinning classes in the street. lots of lycra. nice one noto.

Wednesday, May 17, 2006

_AND more photos of geoffkerrynalanajon doing sicilia_ ace





_AND later that same week___

ok so if you don't go for itineraries press the hash key...
SAT travel to palermo.
SUN gawp @ palermo. dining @ the only restaurant in palermo that hasn't paid off the mafia (so they have 24 hour police guard) - check the photographic evidence above). quattro canti pizza (named after the four corners intersection @ the centre of the old city... go figure),





MON head back to airport to collect car (why oh why), to the autostrada and cruising in our focus CMAX with MAXimum headroom and MAXimum power. apparently. hit resort town Cefalu in the blink of our eyes. Sleeping on the beach, chilling ourselves in the crystal waters (the cliches are true), treated to an organ concert in an aged castle / cathedral. Reluctantly leaving the cobbled streets and sparkling waters we motored to the mountainous interior arriving @ rifugio orestano - a moutain chalet (more like the chateau!) perched on a promontory... complete with 2 saint bernards (no brandy, only sambuca - thanks geoff). don't know how many courses we consumed, but suffice to say that even the power of the hawkes' stomachs combined could not finish the feast,. ouch.

TUE driving. driving. beautiful mountains. towns sprouting out of rocks. more cobbled streets - negotiated ala the italian job. liked nicoise (great old men sitting around the four corners of the piazza). heading to the eastern coast via traffic jam in Catania (lucky geoff was driving cos jon and alana found the euro1.50 wine in the boot...)... a little lost finding the camping ground... circling back foward up down. eventually finding something. got directions to the pizzeria (about 9pm). driving. circling back foward up down. ohmy. but lucked onto the 'music bar' - live music venue making great pizza and great vino de casa. thanks.






WED mmmm mt etna. little wisps of smoke emanating from the summit, crazy lava flows, dense pine forests, heaps of rubbish, migrating caterpillars (some that exploded - oops), delicious coffee (i should be writing this every second sentence - thanks again italy). exploring river canyons and finding snakes. then to the beach (Naxos Gardini) to hunt for more elusive camping grounds. all good and sussed out the best pizza place in town (only realising it's award winning credentials after we had ordered dinner (no pizza of course! the calzone was great - but not cannelloni...)

THUR ocean swimming in the shadow of the giant (preceded by poolside lounging in the shadow of the giant ...). to tourist destination Taormina - hill top town - overlooking blue blue waters... resorts, umbrellas, tour buses, tourists (just like us), greek theatres. sadly fare-welling geoff and kerryn who had to drive 4 hours back to Palermo for an early plane. thanks for the best holiday yous fellas. timelapse over the valley drinking euro0.80 / litre vino rosso. some things never change.

FRI final touristing. then train to the wee town of noto for our serious wwoofing.
07_05_06 Palermo

wowee

they built a set just for us. and called it Palermo. thanks italy. all of you. thanks.

and thanks geoff and kerryn for hooking us up.

we were met at the train station by mario (bearing his fold out ruler to confirm that geoff was infact the prescribed 2 metres)... folded into the golf and whizzed thru the cobbled alleys and the wrong way down one ways... to find mario's restaurant... 'il garage'... (cowskins on the wall, tunisian techno on the stereo and eurosongquest '88 on the TV)... met by his dutch wife marilyn (sic) who walks us down a shady alley way... lined with decrepit buildings... into our cool 'restored' apartment... balcony over tiny alley (still room to drive @ 30kms)... and back to il garage for tunisian fried fish with artichokes and freely flowing 'house' wine... ohmy...

today we discovered that tourists (at least, us) don't have to pay for anything in this city... ordered 4 machiatto (in the middle of sunday morning market)... mario (from il garage) turned up - caffe gratis... geoff convinced the shell fishman to let him try 2 freshly shucked mussels with salt and lemon (rather than the plate of 15)... again gratis... so i tried to buy some fruit... gratis (accept for a handshake)... and then the guy @ sandwich bar couldn't stop loading our cornucopia of fried yummies (everything is packaged in cones... snails, ribs, whitebait... everything accept for gelatto which comes on a stick)...

Palermo is a the city that time forgot... the decay could be oppressive but for it's extreme romance.